I recently just purchased a car from Mays Landing and it has some old sap on the hood that I can't seem to remove with the usual bottled cleaners or polishes. Other than wet sanding the clear coat with ultra fine sand paper, does anyone know a tip on how I could remove the spots? I know those of you that have lived in the sap dripping section of the state know a secret or two to get the baked on spots off of your favorite wheeled vehicle's paint. Thanks in advance!
Any Tips for Removing Pine Sap from a Vehicle's Finish?
- Thread starter Gibby
- Start date
Rubbing alcohol works well. Ive used it many times. Put some on a soft rag/terry cloth towel and let it soak into the sap. Then wipe it clean.
I have used bacon fat and Pine Sol with good results, let it sit awhile to soften the sap. 3M adhesive remover may work and is safe for auto paint finishes, available at most auto part stores.
Would acetone damage the car finish? It's a pretty strong solvent, also kind of a nasty chemical (although I keep a can around myself). 
Would acetone damage the car finish? It's a pretty strong solvent, also kind of a nasty chemical (although I keep a can around myself).
Yes. I have used it to remove dried enamel paint, not certain about the new car paints though. I'd try it in a hidden spot first. I have mixed it with auto transmission fluid for a good penetrating fluid for rusted parts.
Could try peeing on it, urine contains small amounts of acetone.
I almost came to terms with the marks being permanent after getting mixed results from all of the tips, but I am not one to give up. The marks all over the white hood bothered me, so I dug out the the buffer with a sponge pad. After about an hour of cutting the paint with 3M 3000 compound and another half hour of hand polishing the hood and top look better than new. The paint on the car is so slick now, I picked up another mile or so per a gallon of gas.
I almost came to terms with the marks being permanent after getting mixed results from all of the tips, but I am not one to give up. The marks all over the white hood bothered me, so I dug out the the buffer with a sponge pad. After about an hour of cutting the paint with 3M 3000 compound and another half hour of hand polishing the hood and top look better than new. The paint on the car is so slick now, I picked up another mile or so per a gallon of gas.
Be careful, it will be harder to stop without all that resistance
Late to this one, but... Goo Gone. Made from orange oil so it doesn't hurt any finish, and it totally removes pretty much any resin- or oil-based stickiness that gets on your stuff.
That is what I have done.
When it builds up on my truck, I clean it off the glass and the paint with a razor blade. I do not think I would use this practice on a vehicle with a finish I was concerned about. I have also used WD-40, a plastic spatula as a scraper, and a couple of rags to remove sap. Anyway I have tried it is a lot of work.
Believe it or not, WD40 will work on tree sap.
Spray the affected area with WD40, let it sit for about 10-15 mins. After it has soaked in, use a microfiber towel and wipe the area with some medium pressure. Apply more WD40 to the area as you are wiping. The sap will dissolve and be removed. The WD40 will not affect the clearcoat nor will it strip or damage any painted surfaces. After removing sap, rinse or wash car - reapply wax to area (if applicable).
WD40 can be used to remove most sticky residues on vehicles. It is also good to spray under the hood on metal engine components to prevent rusting and oxidation (such as aluminum brackets, bare metal engine parts, etc). This is great for vehicles that sit outside for long periods of time, as well as those that may be stored. The WD40 will not burn or catch fire if engine is started and operated. It is also great to repel dirt/debris because once applied, rinsing the engine bay later on will produce great results!
Been using WD40 in that manner for years now on my prior and current Mustang(s), prior Bronco(s), Jeep, and man other vehicles.... Never an issue.
Spray the affected area with WD40, let it sit for about 10-15 mins. After it has soaked in, use a microfiber towel and wipe the area with some medium pressure. Apply more WD40 to the area as you are wiping. The sap will dissolve and be removed. The WD40 will not affect the clearcoat nor will it strip or damage any painted surfaces. After removing sap, rinse or wash car - reapply wax to area (if applicable).
WD40 can be used to remove most sticky residues on vehicles. It is also good to spray under the hood on metal engine components to prevent rusting and oxidation (such as aluminum brackets, bare metal engine parts, etc). This is great for vehicles that sit outside for long periods of time, as well as those that may be stored. The WD40 will not burn or catch fire if engine is started and operated. It is also great to repel dirt/debris because once applied, rinsing the engine bay later on will produce great results!
Been using WD40 in that manner for years now on my prior and current Mustang(s), prior Bronco(s), Jeep, and man other vehicles.... Never an issue.
Years ago I read that some people used WD-40 for treating arthritis pain. They claimed it passed right through the skin. The company doesn't seem to agree, however there are some other interesting uses. http://wd40.com/about-us/myths-legends-fun-facts/
Fun Facts About WD-40
http://wd40.com/about-us/myths-legends-fun-facts/Fun Facts About WD-40
- A bus driver in Asia used WD-40 to remove a python, which had coiled itself around the undercarriage of his bus.
- Police officers used WD-40 to remove a naked burglar trapped in an air conditioning vent.
Save your money and just use mineral oil, it makes up 50% of what is in WD40. And WD40 is flammable.
http://www.wd40company.com/files/pdf/msds-wd494716385.pdf
http://www.wired.com/science/discoveries/magazine/17-05/st_whatsinside
http://www.wd40company.com/files/pdf/msds-wd494716385.pdf
http://www.wired.com/science/discoveries/magazine/17-05/st_whatsinside