Trip Report: May 1736—John Bartram in the Cedar Swamps

“Peter Collinson:–

I engag’d an owner of part of Cedar swamp for my Guide without whome I could hardly have found It. Wee travel’d about Twelve Miles beyond the inhabitants over Desarts of sand & such deep mirery Swamps that sometimes both Wee and our Horses had much ado to gett out. The Sand lies in Ridges 40 ot 50 or 60 poles over & the swamps lie between which are the heads of Rivers & Brooks but so thick sett with shrubs and Bushes about 10 poles Wide yt [yt=that] wee had great Difficulty in passing these swamps att Last wee came to the Head of (Egharbour River) where the great Cedar Swamp Began containing many hundred Acres Cheifly produceing White Cedar but in some dryer places, Silver Laurell or Bay Maple, Holley, & Sassifras & about the Ridges Some pines, but I observed no Red Cedar. The White Grows only in wett places often knee deep in Water in wett seasons—they grow near together the small ones within a foot or Two of one another a white Cedar of Two inches Diameter will be 20 feet high, the larger Trees grows all att 10 or 20 feet Distance which makes them grow very tall, a Tree of Two feet diamr att the Hump, will be 80 or 100 feet in highth and 30 or 40 feet without a Limb, the soil where they grow I take to be Clay but the surface is a matt of Roots all interlac’d one with another which intangles the Leaves and Rubish & makes a Bogg the Bark of the Root is Red which gives a tincture to the Waters that runs from them but the Tast is good & sweet. Our Ceterach & Sarsaparilla grows att the Roots where the sun is rarely seen so thick is the shade above, the Leaves is not near so long & prickly as the Red Cedar, the Fruite is Coniferous & seed very small—to satisfie your Immediate Curiosity I inclose a small speciment, but this second of Last June, I cutt down a Large Tree for to send you Larger Specimens which I shall send by first opportunity.

John Bartram”

Original spelling maintained throughout the above transcription.

Best regards,
Jerseyman
 

woodjin

Piney
Nov 8, 2004
4,342
328
Near Mt. Misery
Very unique idea Jerseyman, to post a historic trip report. A pleasure to read, and a reminder that our interests are not contemporary.

Jeff
 
Apr 6, 2004
3,620
564
Galloway
I've poked around there before, Jim. I used to have a driving job and often passed through the Berlin area. When I had time to spare, I'd stop to check out points of interest. I like to think of that area as the Jersey Eden, since a number of Pine Barrens rivers have their source there: The Mullica, the Great Egg, and the Rancocas.
 
Oct 25, 2006
1,757
1
74
I've poked around there before, Jim. I used to have a driving job and often passed through the Berlin area. When I had time to spare, I'd stop to check out points of interest. In one day I was able to check out the headwaters for the Mechescatauxin, the Mullica and the Great Egg Harbor. I like to think of that area as the Jersey Eden, since a number of Pine Barrens rivers have their source there, e.g. the Mullica, the Sleeper, the Great Egg, and the Rancocas.

Correct me if i am wrong, but i am guessing that all of the above at the source including all other rivers and streams start as a natural spring, any pics of the above ?

Jim
 

Teegate

Administrator
Site Administrator
Sep 17, 2002
25,951
8,695
Thanks, Jerseyman!!

For those so inclined, there is still a cedar swamp at the head of the Egg Harbor River, now commonly known as the Mullica.

http://www.topozone.com/map.asp?lat=39.79559&lon=-74.79847&size=l&u=4&datum=nad83&layer=DRG

Thanks Jerseyman.

The link Ben posted is where I spent quite a bit of time recently checking on that tract of land in Medford and Shamong township. The cedar swamp is actually west of the there and it is the most dense one I have ever been in. You may remember me getting lost. I feel sorry for the person in Jerseyman's post if he went into that swamp. One may never come out of there!

Guy
 
Oct 25, 2006
1,757
1
74
Thanks Jerseyman.

The link Ben posted is where I spent quite a bit of time recently checking on that tract of land in Medford and Shamong township. The cedar swamp is actually west of the there and it is the most dense one I have ever been in. You may remember me getting lost. I feel sorry for the person in Jerseyman's post if he went into that swamp. One may never come out of there!

Guy

Just by looking at the map, it looks like a waterborne exercise in futility.

Jim
 

MarkBNJ

Piney
Jun 17, 2007
1,875
73
Long Valley, NJ
www.markbetz.net
Correct me if i am wrong, but i am guessing that all of the above at the source including all other rivers and streams start as a natural spring, any pics of the above ?

Jim

I've heard it said that no stream crosses the barrens: all the streams which exit the woods rise within the woods.

But are they all actually freshwater springs? We have many streams up here that have their source in upland seeps at the center of a drainage basin. But our bedrock is close to the surface. I guess in the barrens the water heads pretty much straight down into the sand, and then follows the clay strata until bubbling up somewhere as a spring. Does that sound about right?
 

bobpbx

Piney
Staff member
Oct 25, 2002
14,661
4,839
Pines; Bamber area
Mark and Ben, both of what you say seems right, though you do say it differently. I think most of it is water that seeps into geographically correct channels that point down, down, down, toward the Delaware or Atlantic. Some of it bubbles up as springs (all along the water course, of course) that join the main flow, with zeal and zest!
 

relayer

Explorer
If the "inhabitants" that Bartram was 12 miles beyond was Haddonfield, and in 1736 I'm inclined to believe it was(Haddonfield, at the time consisted of between a half dozen and a dozen structures scattered(There werefarms along the Borten Mill and Egg Harbor roads but they were relatively few and far between and the pines were closer than you might think) along an early version of Kings Highway from the Ferry Road(Haddon Avenue) to the vicinity of Kay's Gristmill on the South Branch of Cooper Creek), then that would place the edge of the cedar swamp and the head of the Egg Harbour River about 12 miles from there. After working things out on Clement and Beers maps and doing a check for modern distance at Mapquest, I have concluded that Bartram had his adventures around present day Berlin(see pinelandpaddlers map) and that he was indeed at the head of the Egg Harbor River. I was still puzzled by his account of his trip there though since the Egg Harbor Road, even in 1736 was never quite as exciting as described. When I consulted with Bill Leap, however, he pointed out that the main roads avoided the cedar swamps and that Bartram would have been on some pretty challenging logging roads or paths to get to the actual swamp. Bill also wondered if Bartram might have been as far south as the new Brooklyn/Seven Causeways area because of the terrain described.

I should point out that Bartram would have hit a white sand and pitch pines environment shortly after leaving Haddonfield on the Egg Harbor Rd(Something like todays Warwick Road for a while). There is still plenty of evidence in Lawnside to show that the pines once extended that far west. At any rate, Bartam and his horse were traveling on roads similar to the lesser traveled byways of todays pines for the rest of his trip.

Dunefields like Bartram describes are to be found in several places in the Pines. Mark Demitroff, who I bothered about this as well, said that Bartams descriptions of terrain are just as fitting for an area known as the Lochs of the Swamps, which, if I understood correctly, is a bit further out.

I could just go on babbling about this all day...but I won't:)

best

relayer
 

MarkBNJ

Piney
Jun 17, 2007
1,875
73
Long Valley, NJ
www.markbetz.net
Nicely put, Bob.



Mark,

What do you mean by "at the center of a drainage basin"?

Poor choice of words on my part. Maybe "low point of a drainage basin" would have been a better way to put it. Up here everything is hills and valleys. Anyway, I think bobpbx has it right. Water just wants to head down to sea level. Up here that means collecting in the valleys and forming streams. Down there it means flowing down to the impermeable layer and then flowing along that layer to low points, and occasionally bubbling up as a spring.
 
Apr 6, 2004
3,620
564
Galloway
Good post, relayer. Note to all:

We have to remember that there are two Egg Harbour rivers. The one is view is the Great Egg Harbour, not the Little Egg Harbor (Mullica).
 
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