Ok you have the right idea for sure then. And some of these cars are now equipped with electronic wear indicators that illuminate a warning lamp-- the indicator tab contacts the rotor and completes the circuit much like a brush in an electric motor does.
Webb's Mill Stones
- Thread starter Teegate
- Start date
Common for small stone, large grain sand, stuck in caliper or pad and rubbing
I replaced the brake pads today and the right rear where the noise was is into the wear indicator. The other rear pad was at least 1/8 inch away from touching and the front were barely worn. And the piston on the one in question was tough pushing back in so I am going to have to keep a close watch on that brake. My daughter had a 2004 CRV and I had to replace her rear caliper so maybe there is an issue with them.
Calipers fail on any car with age. They are the low spot in the system and brake fluid is very good at absorbing humidity from the air, mainly through the cap on the master cylinder reservoir. That moisture goes to the lowest point and corrodes the caliper pistons and bores. One way to prevent it is to bleed the brakes until clean, clear fluid is coming out. Honda actually specifies this as a regular maintenance requirement in the owners manual. Nobody really does it in practice. Just like, did you know the valve lash adjusters are supposed to be adjusted every 30k miles on Hondas? .007 on the intake and .013 on the exhaust.
That adjustment was quite common when I started working on cars.
Since I am a machinist I have to deal with engineers and their weird tolerances, and learned a long time ago that if they say .007 and .013 that .011 and 017 will do just fine. I think I will pass on checking them especially when I don't hear any valve noise.
Totally agree on the first point. I normally adjust to the looser end of the spec. On the latter, however, I disagree. Over time, the valves tend to beat themselves into the seat in the cylinder head, causing the lash to actually decrease (tighten) rather than increase. Excessive valve lash will cause noise but little else, but insufficient lash will eventually lead to the valve failing to seal, and the valve burning. Normally there is no valve noise associated with this!
On Hondas, normally the first symptom is rough running or inability to idle when hot (the valve stem height is greatest, and lash least, when hot). If this symptom is recognized quickly and a proper valve adjustment done, damage may be averted.
Not trying to be a know-it-all! Obviously it's your car and your own risk calculation is the only one that matters. Just trying to share some experience on the topic.
On Hondas, normally the first symptom is rough running or inability to idle when hot (the valve stem height is greatest, and lash least, when hot). If this symptom is recognized quickly and a proper valve adjustment done, damage may be averted.
Not trying to be a know-it-all! Obviously it's your car and your own risk calculation is the only one that matters. Just trying to share some experience on the topic.
So today after returning from a short drive in my car, Jessica noticed a strong smell of brake pads when she exited my vehicle. The wheel with the worn pad in the above photo was burning. The caliper that I mentioned that was stiff apparently is going bad just like both real calipers on my daughter previous 2004 CRV. So to eliminate any problems I purchased a new caliper from Honda this morning ( $218.99) and installed it. The new pads were scorched but still good so I did not replace them. All appears well now.